Boat Outfitting and Deck Hardware

The best boat anchor depends on the bottom you anchor in. A Danforth or fluke anchor holds well in sand and mud, a claw anchor sets and resets in mixed bottoms, a delta anchor suits sand, mud and gravel and launches from a bow roller, and a mushroom anchor is for small boats in soft mud. Then size the anchor for your boat length and weight using the maker's chart.

A Danforth or fluke anchor is a lightweight anchor with two flat flukes that dig into sand and mud, giving strong holding for its weight. It stows flat, which makes it popular on small and mid-size boats. It can struggle to set in rock, heavy weed or very hard bottoms.

A shallow water anchor drives a spike or pole into the bottom to hold the boat quietly in place in shallow water, without dropping a traditional anchor and rode. Power models deploy at the push of a button or remote, while manual models are lowered by hand. The maximum working depth depends on the model.

An anchor windlass has a gypsy or chainwheel that hauls rope and chain and feeds the rode into the anchor locker. A capstan has a vertical drum: you wrap the line around it and handle and stow the rode by hand. A drum anchor winch stores the rope on a drum and is common on smaller boats and pontoons.

Choose the boat seat for where it goes and how you use it: a helm or bucket seat at the console, or a folding fishing seat on deck. Then choose a fixed or adjustable seat pedestal for the height you need, and check that the pedestal base and seat mount pattern match your boat.

Mechanical cable steering is simple and budget friendly for smaller outboards. Hydraulic steering keeps steering light and smooth on higher horsepower boats. Hydraulic steering kits are rated by engine horsepower and number of engines, so check the kit rating, such as BayStar for single outboards up to 150 hp, against your engine.

A boarding ladder mounts on the boat, often on the transom or swim platform, for climbing back aboard from the water. A dock ladder mounts on the dock for swimming or boarding. Choose the number of steps for your freeboard or dock height, and check the mounting style and materials before you order.

Bilge pumps are rated in gallons per hour (GPH) with no lift, and real output drops with hose length and height, so it is common to choose more capacity than you think you need. Many boats carry an automatic bilge pump or a pump with a float switch, plus a manual backup pump.

A livewell aerator pump moves fresh, oxygenated water through the livewell to keep bait and fish alive. A livewell timer cycles the aerator on and off so it runs regularly without draining the battery.

Measure the cutout in the deck, not the old lid, and note the outside flange size, the hinge side and the depth below the deck. Choose a waterproof or gasketed boat hatch for areas that see spray or standing water.

Pick the rub rail profile and material that fits your gunwale, such as rigid or flexible vinyl, with or without an insert. Measure the full length you need to cover and add extra for joins and end caps. Rub rail kits include the matching rail, insert and end caps.

A common rule of thumb is about 1 inch of fender diameter for every 4 to 5 feet of boat length, with at least three fenders on the side you dock. Twin eye fenders hang vertically or horizontally, and larger or heavier boats need larger fenders.

Requirements depend on your boat's length and design and where you use it. Many boats used on coastal waters must carry visual distress signals such as flares, and most motorboats need a marine-rated fire extinguisher. Check current US Coast Guard rules and keep flares and extinguishers in date.